THE FORESTS OF SPAIN HAVE ALWAYS BEEN DARK AND MYSTERIOUS PLACES, FULL OF WOLVES AND BANDITS. THERE ARE REMNANTS OF ANCIENT FORESTS IN MANY PARTS OF THE COUNTRY — GREAT OAK FORESTS COVERED IN ENOUGH MOSS TO MAKE THEM LOOK LIKE TOLKIEN FANTASIES, AND GLOOMY ARBUTUS FORESTS WHERE WILD BOARS LURK IN THE SHADOWS. EVERY AUTUMN AFTER THE FIRST STEADY RAINS, DROVES OF SPANIARDS ARMED WITH KNIVES AND BASKETS HEAD TO THE FORESTS IN SEARCH OF TREASURED SETAS (WILD MUSHROOMS). WILD MUSHROOMS ARE SO DIFFERENT TO THEIR SHED-RAISED COUSINS: THEY ARE RICH, SLIPPERY AND GIVE SO MUCH MORE TO A DISH — ALMOST LIKE NATURE’S STOCK CUBE. I HAVE BEEN TO THIS PART OF SPAIN SEVERAL TIMES DURING MUSHROOM SEASON AND THE NEXT FEW RECIPES REFLECT BOTH THE LOVE THE LOCALS HAVE FOR MUSHROOMS AND THE RESPECT I HAVE FOR THEIR RECIPES. BECAUSE CHANTERELLES ARE HARD TO COME BY I’VE SUBSTITUTED THEM HERE WITH KING BROWN MUSHROOMS — GREAT WOOD MUSHROOMS IMPORTED FROM KOREA THAT STILL HAVE GOOD FLAVOUR.