IT WAS A SPRING AFTERNOON AND WE HEADED TO A RESTAURANT JUST OUT OF SAN SEBASTIÁN LOOKING OUT OVER THE BEACH. WE WERE AMONG WELL-DRESSED FAMILIES IN A ROOM FILLED WITH SOFT LIGHT. CHILDREN WITH WET COMBED HAIR SAT WITH THEIR PARENTS AND GRANDPARENTS. IT WAS VERY POLITE AND QUITE BEAUTIFUL. I WAS BROUGHT BACK TO MY SENSES, LITERALLY, BY THE SMELL OF A PLATE OF WHITE CUTTLEFISH IN BLACK SAUCE PLACED IN FRONT OF ME. I COULD SMELL THE SEA, SWEET ONIONS, BAY LEAVES, GARLIC, COOKED WINE — SENSATI