Mamia

I ONCE MET A BASQUE FARMER WHO NOT ONLY MADE HIS OWN CHEESE BUT ALSO HIS OWN RENNET — AN ENZYME FROM THE STOMACH OF LAMBS. HE HELD AN ORANGE-SIZED BALL OF THE STUFF, PRESERVED WITH SALT, IN THE PALM OF HIS HAND. HE AND I SOON FOUND WE SHARED A LOVE OF MAMIA AS HE CALLED IT — OR CUAJADA AS IT WAS KNOWN IN MY HOUSEHOLD, AND MOST LIKELY AS JUNKET IN YOURS. HE STILL DID THE TRADITIONAL BASQUE THING AND WARMED HIS MILK — RAW SHEEP’S MILK — WITH A STONE HEATED IN THE FIRE AND THEN D