I love steak tartare because to make a really good one – it’s all about the seasoning. It has to be almost too tasty, in order to make it the dish it is. Salty, sour, sweet, you can basically use steak tartare as a vehicle to carry the flavours of any cuisine you like: it’s just about applying the elemental flavours of that cuisine and topping it with a raw egg yolk.

Sichuan food has lots of chilli oil, Sichuan pepper, dried roasted chillies, while a Vietnamese version might feature