Oregano grows wild all over the countryside in Sicily and Calabria. The Sicilians make judicious use of it with salmoriglio sauce. The word means ‘to brine’ and it is used to marinate fish, pork or lamb or just served as a sauce. You can either barbecue skewers or prepare this as a whole butterflied leg of lamb. The longer you leave it to marinate the better, overnight if possible.