This ‘cream salad’, well known in the West, is a Greek and Turkish speciality. Tarama is the dried, salted and pressed roe of the grey mullet, but you can use smoked cod’s roe, which can easily be found at a fishmonger’s or a delicatessen.
Remove the crusts from the bread and soak the slices in a little milk. Skin the roes and pound them vigorously in a mortar to eliminate their gritty texture. Add the soaked bread, squeezed dry, the garlic and/or onion, and continue pounding until smooth. Gradually add lemon juice and olive oil, tasting until you get the flavour you like; more or less lemon, garlic or oni