Quatre-quarts à la fleur de sel, compote de rhubarbe et fraises

This is the classic French all-in-one butter sponge or pound cake, called quatre-quarts, or four quarters, as its four main ingredients are all the same weight. Flavoured with chocolate, lemon zest or vanilla, it’s the perfect Sunday afternoon cake.

I always like to make it with salted butter. This might be more from nostalgia for salty Irish Dromona, used in both the sponge and the icing on the cakes of my childhood, than any culinary justification. Either way, both nostalgi