Ecrevisses à la nage

Crayfish, little freshwater lobsters, were on the verge of extinction due to pollution in France’s rivers and lakes. Now, thanks to their being farmed, they are becoming more easily available though as yet have not dethroned langoustines. Their flaming shells (in French you go red as a crayfish, not a beetroot which makes sense really) and cute looks (they have extraordinary teddy-bear eyes) made them the star of many medieval banquet centrepieces, and Marie Antoinette ador