Pimientos de piquillo à la brandade

Piquillos are small, sweet and smoky Basque peppers. They’re easily found now that chefs such as Yves Camdeborde and Hélène Darroze have made south-western French specialities so popular. Brandade is halfway between a purée and an emulsion of salt cod, oil, garlic, and, sometimes, potatoes. It’s available in tins or jars and most good fishmongers sell it, often home-made, in their traiteur