The naturally effervescent mineral water from the springs at Vichy, reputed to have medicinal benefits, was traditionally used to poach the carrots, thus imparting its distinctive taste. It is now argued that bicarbonate of soda, usually found in sparkling water, is not the best substance for maintaining the carrots’ vitamin levels but if you can find ‘eau de vichy’ (the label St Yorre qualifies) you will at least have full marks for historical precision. If not, read