The aim with this dessert is to cook the best apples in the simplest way - in France I would use Boskoop or Granny Smith, which are firm and slightly tart, and a far cry from astringent ‘cookers’. The texture of Inaki’s compote should be melting, fondant and not puréed as is usually the case in France. In fact this is pretty much the way my mother served ‘stewed’ apples when I was a child. Try to cook quickly and lightly, leaving a little bite in the