Along with the Costes brothers’ tomates mozzarella basilic (caprèse salad), Alain Ducasse was largely responsible for the wave of Italian/Provençal dishes and ingredients that swept France in the 1990s. Suddenly tapenade and anchoiade were everywhere, rocket had dethroned màche (lambs’ lettuce) and sun-dried tomatoes invaded just as they did the UK. The combination of these star ingredients with