Amelia Innocenti cooks all the classic Florentine dishes, but ask her to name her favorites, and she immediately mentions this one. The squid cooks with the chard, tomatoes, garlic, and wine, until it is silky. It’s a rich and filling dish, the centerpiece for a nourishing meal, and it even pleases people who usually flinch at the mention of squid.
Most fish markets now sell cleaned squid, so it’s unlikely you’ll have to tackle that chore yourself.