Emma Grassi Bensi is deep in her eighties, stands about 5 feet tall, has red hair cut in a pixie style, wears huge rose-colored glasses, and reads Gente, the People magazine of Italy. She has a deep throaty chuckle and lively appreciation of life, among whose pleasures she counts cooking the best Tuscan country dishes, like these pork chops in a sauce of onions that almost melt as they cook. Women from all over Italy cook onions so slowly that they become a creamy sa