His dish of Giuseppina Peppino De Lorenzi’s is a stunning example of rustic Italian cooking at its best. It begins with eggplant, that most humble of vegetables, which is filled with a mixture of the primary materials of everyday life in the southern region of Apulia: meaty ripe tomatoes, crumbs from wheels of full-flavored country bread, handfuls of freshly grated sheep’s milk cheese, and capers that grow in the fissures of rock and wall. One taste of the filling, which is