My friend Anita who hails from Kerala makes biryani using only her mother’s recipe. An acquaintance who is descended from a Rajasthani maharajah boasted that his recipe was royal. While I used to associate biryani only with Arab Street previously, I no longer do so. With the realisation that nasi biryani is rooted in Mughal culinary history and hence the evolution of India itself, I could now understand how an Indian-Muslim restaurant owner would pride his restaurant’s succ