Caldeirada

There must be almost as many versions of this as there are households on the Portuguese coast. This one was demonstrated to me in Lisbon by Judite Jesus de Cabo. I give it exactly as she made it; but with the advice to be flexible in the choice of fish. Conger eel helps to make the liquid pleasantly unctuous; but many cooks prefer a less bony fish. The addition of sardines, cooked separately, is optional. Their crispness provides a note of contrast; but pieces of fried brea