Suomalainen Lohikeitto

This has three invariable ingredients: salmon, potatoes and dill. The question whether milk should be added excites a certain amount of passion among Finns. I think that the soup is very good either way.

The Havis Amanda Seafood Restaurant in Helsinki makes the milkless kind thus. Take the head and tail of a salmon, and some narrow pieces from the flank. Cook these for 15 to 20 minutes with onions, carrots, black and white peppercorns and a bay leaf; then strain it, collect from the