Although crisp garlic toast is wonderful, sometimes you want the opposite of crisp, as in this Provençal sandwich, called pan bagnat. The aim here is to let the juicy interior meld with the bread a bit. It’s like a soggy salad (divinely soggy, that is) on a kaiser roll. It can be pared down to contain only tomato, or built up to include roasted peppers, grilled eggplant—even some good canned tuna. Garlic, olive oil, and red wine vinegar are the most important elements. A few anchovies and capers make a nice addition too. Take a basketful to the beach. By the time you get there, your sandwiches will be at their peak.