Golden Coconut Cookies

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By David Tanis

Published 2013

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The Spanish name of these cookies, cocadas doradas, sounds like a very short poem. I first tasted them in a bare-bones family-run bakery in rural Mexico. They had been baked in a homemade horno (a clay oven), on hand-hammered cookie sheets made from old license plates. Shredded coconut, piloncillo (a Mexican unrefined sugar), and egg white are the only ingredients. Bake just long enough to crisp and burnish the exterior so the center remains chewy.