In classic French bistros, in addition to crème brûlée and tarte Tatin, you can usually get a dessert of fromage blanc, a freshly made soft, pure-white cheese. It’s brought to the table with a shaker of superfine sugar and maybe a few berries, fraises des bois if you’re lucky (or it can be eaten with salt and pepper instead, like good cottage cheese). It is a divine little treat. While fromage blanc is widely available in France, that’s not the case here. Good ultrafresh ricotta makes a perfect substitute.