Sweet Potato Pie

Pumpkin pie gets the top billing at Thanksgiving, but I have a soft spot for sweet potato pie. Some people expect it to have a starchy texture, but the secret to making a really good one is to roast sweet potatoes with their skins on—protecting the flesh from drying out in the high heat—until the starches have broken down and deeply caramelized. The end result is a deeply satisfying custard pie with a molasses-y tang.