Okay, so this recipe might see Italian mommas crying into their ragu in horror, but this zingy pineapple anchovy combination is a source of sweet-and-sour-dipping-sauce joy to millions of Vietnamese.

I confess, I have tried and tried but I have struggled to make really good arancini. I expect so much ooze and umph from these crisp, unassuming little balls, I had to go this far off piste to get there. For both my tyrannical palate and my brazen adulteration of this Italian classic, I