Salt-Crusted Beef Tenderloin Grilled in Cloth

Beef tenderloin holds a singular place in the world of barbecue—it’s one of the costliest and most prestigious cuts of meat, but paradoxically, one of the least flavorful. Remember: In North America, it’s the cheap lowbrow cuts, like spareribs and brisket, that have achieved barbecue cult status. So when I heard that Colombian grill masters had figured out a way to give beef tenderloin drama and taste, I couldn’t board an Avianca flight fast enough to try it. Lomo al trapo (literally