Brazilian Matambre

The name says it all: “hunger-killer.” That’s what matambre means in Portuguese and Spanish. This monster roll—a sort of Brazilian braciole—turns up throughout southern South America, where it pairs the salty tang of ham and cheese with the sweetness of peppers and onions. What Brazil adds to the mix is the churrasquiera (industrial-strength rotisserie). Spit roasting gives you a texture and flavor that’s very different from grilling the matambre in foil as is done in A