Eucalyptus-Grilled Veal Roast with Colombian Salsas

There’s an old saying in the Llano, Colombia’s cattle-raising district in the north central part of the country:

• La mamona solo lleva
• Sal y candela.
• If it’s veal you desire
• All you need is salt and fire.

That pretty much sums up one of the most singular styles of barbecue in South America, roasting over a eucalyptus wood campfire. The seasonings are simple: salt and wood smoke. The fireworks co