Francis Mallmann’s Salt-Roasted Chicken

I arrived in Garzón, Uruguay, after flying all night and driving most of the day. I was looking for Francis Mallmann. The celebrated South American chef-grill master is a tough guy to track down: When he’s not at one of his restaurants (located in Mendoza, Argentina, Buenos Aires, and here in Garzón), he’s taping a TV show on a glacier in Patagonia, jetting off to some fabulous culinary project in Europe, or chilling in an obscure village without electricity on the Uruguayan coast. But ther