Mexican Grilled Fish Tacos

Fish tacos are not so much a recipe in Mexico, as a way of eating—and a way of life. There’s the protein: fresh fish (preferably that came off a boat that morning), minimally seasoned and served hot off the grill. There’s the wrapper: a corn tortilla (preferably made by hand a few hours earlier), served hot off the comal or warmed on the grill. To invigorate these ingredients, there’s a salsa or several salsas at once: a cool, crisp pico de gallo (fresh tomato, onion, and jala