Tikin Xik in the Style of Campeche

The polychromatic colonial town of Campeche (a World Heritage site), is home to a remarkable restaurant called La Pigua (named for a local prawn). It’s a white tablecloth sort of establishment, not a beach shack, and its dramatic glass-walled dining room with the backlit seventeenth century stone rampart foundations behind it make an architectural statement you’d expect to see in Soho or Roppongi Hills. The chefs in the stainless steel kitchen wear toques—rarely a good sign at a grill joint