Smashed Potatoes

That grilled potatoes should turn up throughout South America makes sense—after all, Latinos are grill maniacs and the potato originated in the Andes Mountains. That the widespread practice here is to grill potatoes wrapped in aluminum foil (al plomo—literally “in lead”) seems counterproductive. After all, the foil blocks out the fire and smoke flavors. At least one restaurant, La Huella in José Ignacio, Uruguay, bucks the trend, roasting its potatoes in their skins in an oak-burning