Here’s a dessert of such startling simplicity and bold in-your-face flavors, just to hear about it will make you want to try it. It comes from the rock star of South American grilling, Francis Mallmann (see here). Mallmann uses a traditional South American wood fire-heated, cast-iron griddle called a chapa; think of it as an Argentinean plancha. When you do it right, the sugar cooks to a dark,