The very early food writer Archestratus, who was writing in 345bc, came from Syracuse on the isle of Sicily. His best-known work is a poem called ‘The Life of Luxury’ and I like to think he might have eaten this stew. Basically, the more fish you use, the better it is and the more varied the flavours. You want to use wolf fish, hake, red snapper, monkfish, dogfish, shark, sea bass, or anything like that: good, firmish fish. Ask your fishmonger what’s good and just pile it a