It really pays to spend money on good pork. There is all the difference in the world between meat from an old-fashioned pig like a Middle White or Gloucester Old Spot that has been allowed to rootle about outdoors, and a pallid joint from a barn-reared beast fed on pellets. You need a good butcher too! The most maddening thing for a cook is to get a beautiful joint of pork with a few vandal’s slashes through the skin instead of perfectly scored crackling. If your butcher or the supermarket do not know how to do it properly, do it yourself. It’s easy!