This is filthy in a very good way indeed. It has every flavour profile you could wish for: crunchy, bitter, salty, sweet, sour. We’ve often thought that if we opened a street food stall selling just this, there would be a queue a mile long. It’s worth splashing out on your oil, it really makes a difference. We suggest a cold-pressed Spanish olive oil for smearing, and a rich Tuscan extra virgin for drizzling.