Cauliflower Cheese

When I was a child, the words “Cauliflower Cheese” struck horror into me at dinnertime, mainly because my mother’s occasionally over-frugal ways meant it was simply a boiled cauliflower covered in a lumpy white sauce of far more flour than cheese. I have since gone on to a much more successful career in cauliflower and cheese, so that my older son greets this dish at supper with cries of joy. White pepper is common, because it adds a sharper flavor to the sauce, but black pepper is fine, to