Chicken with Catupiry Cheese Sauce

Opened in 1934, Bar Lagoa is lit by old-style chandeliers and has dusty floors, wooden tables and white-haired waiters. Talk about old world. But none of our modern amenities matter when I take in the view, admiring the heart-shaped lake in Rio’s Zona Sul, eating this dish and remembering the days of my youth when I used to ride the swan paddle across from the bar.

Brazilians love Catupiry cheese. It tastes like butter mixed with fresh cream cheese and a dash of vanilla. While I usu