Ceviche – fish ‘cooked’ in a marinade of citrus juice – can be made from almost any fish, but fish fillets that are too thin can fall apart and look a little sad. Ideally, choose a sustainable fish that has some grunt to it, something with generous flakes and flavour, such as haddock or snapper.

Tomatillos, also known as Mexican tomatoes, are actually close relatives of the cape gooseberry or physalis fruit. Round and green, sometimes ripening to yellow, they have a delicious flavour of lemons and apples. Increasingly widely available here, like their fruity relative they come shrouded in a protective husk that needs to be removed.

This is the perfect summer meal to follow a bowl of chilled gazpacho.