Veal stock is an excellent base for both white and brown sauces because it has a deep, subtle flavor that makes it especially adaptable to a variety of preparations. Veal stock—both white and brown—was the basic stock used in professional kitchens during the nineteenth and into the twentieth centuries. Because of its expense, it has largely been replaced with beef stock, chicken stock, or stocks made with veal bones alone. However, there is one cut that remains inexpensive—breast. If you’re using the meat (say, for a blanquette de veau), cut it away from the bones. Simmer the bones (after blanching) for 12 hours. Blanch the meat, cut to the appropriate size and shape, and simmer it very gently in the bone broth for 2 to 3 hours.

The ingredients below can be used for either white or brown veal stock; the initial procedure is for white stock, with the variation for brown stock following. When preparing white veal stock, the meat and bones must first be blanched—placed in a pot of cold water and brought to a simmer—then drained and rinsed before being used in the final stock. If this step is ignored, the stock will be cloudy and gray and taste muddy.