In most cases, a jus should be well degreased, although Escoffier says that it shouldn’t look like consommé and that a trace of fat can actually improve it. In general, when adding ingredients to a jus, they must be emulsions or thickeners or they’ll simply separate. Butter is an example of an ingredient that works well for finishing a jus, but if you want the flavor of beurre noisette, you’ll have to emulsify the oily butter into the jus using different emulsifiers. Here, a small proportion of propylene glycol alginate and xanthan gum are blended into the jus before the beurre noisette, combined with lecithin and Glice, is added.
|propylene glycol alginate|
|chicken jus, warmed|
|mono- and diglycerides (glice)|
|beurre noisette, warmed|
|salt and pepper||to taste||to taste|
Use an immersion blender to blend the propylene glycol alginate and xanthan gum into the jus. Stir the liquid lecithin and Glice into the beurre noisette until well dissolved. Add the beurre noisette to the jus in a slow, steady stream while blending with an immersion blender. Season with salt and pepper.
A natural jus can also be thickened with puréed vegetables. The easiest and most flavorful method is to roast the meat with chopped aromatic vegetables such as carrots, turnips, onions, or garlic, degrease and deglaze the pan, and force the vegetables and cooking jus through a food mill or strainer. In restaurants or other professional settings where this is impractical, vegetable purées can be prepared on the side and used as thickeners for the jus (see Chapter 18, “Purées and Purée-Thickened Sauces”), but the vegetables will not have benefited from being cooked with the fat and drippings from the roast.
Most Americans are familiar with giblet gravy, which is finished with the precooked and chopped heart, liver, and gizzard of turkeys or chickens. Although this is an excellent method—the chopped meats provide textural contrast and flavor—a different and somewhat more flavorful jus is obtained by puréeing the giblets (a food processor works well) while still raw with an equal amount of butter. The purée is then beaten into the jus at the last minute. Another refinement is to replace the giblet mixture with a purée of foie gras.
The natural cooking liquid from game, rabbits, and poultry is sometimes thickened with blood, usually used in combination with the puréed liver and
Sauces thickened with foie gras or blood will benefit from an added emulsifier. A small amount of propylene glycol alginate can be dissolved in the sauce base, while liquid lecithin and mono- and diglycerides (Glice) are blended into the foie gras, blood, or giblet butter.
Copyright © 2017 by James Peterson. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.