Moussaka is the ideal winter dish—a rich stick-to-your-ribs concoction. According to John Cooper, in his estimable Eat and Be Satisfied, it was served during Rosh Hashanah. Most of us associate moussaka with a topping of cheesy béchamel custard. According to kosher laws, however, no cheese or dairy may be used with meat, so this Turkish Sephardic moussaka from La table juive takes on a totally different character. Instead of the richness of cheese and cream, i