We used to make this soup when I worked at Carrier’s restaurant in Islington. It isn’t difficult, and was often the commis cook’s job.
If you didn’t already know,
At the time, it was a brave move for him to open a restaurant. He had advocated a definite approach to food in his writing, and was a target for bitchy sniping, some from competitor journalists, and some from people he had miffed in his articles. It was certainly one of Britain’s best restaurants in its day, and I learned a lot there.
Carrier didn’t cook, but compiled the menu and dictated the style. It was a good arrangement for the cooks, because we knew very little outside the classical repertoire. None of us had heard of satay, or lamb in Greek pastry, nor even French bourgeois dishes like boeuf à la ficelle.
We made few soups in the restaurant. This was my favourite, and we had it at home adding mussels or chicken leftovers to make it more of a meal. The quantities are sufficient for eight people. It’s not worth making less, and you can freeze it before the cream is added.
© 1990 Shaun Hill. All rights reserved.