Carp Quenelles with Shrimps and Dill

Middle European countries eat a lot of freshwater fish like carp and sander. It makes sense when you look at the atlas – most do not have a lot of seaside.

I first came upon carp at the Gay Hussar, a Hungarian restaurant in Soho, when I worked there in the early seventies. There was a tank full of them in an otherwise cramped kitchen. They swam lazily about in spacious surrounds while we cooks could barely move without stabbing each other. The kitchen was peopled with Austrians and