Never confuse the Aylesbury or Chinese variety of ducks with Barbary or other lean ducks. The native variety has delicious skin, a small but tender layer of pale meat, and quite a lot of fat. It suits roasting and steaming. Barbary ducks (or Challans ducks from France and, to a lesser extent, Gressingham ducks) have a thick, dark breast, and skin which is unpleasant to eat. These are best treated like steaks and served underdone.