Wild mushrooms, especially morels, and celeriac marry well, and I start to think of dishes like this when autumn approaches. I use fillet steak regularly in this combination, but it also complements venison and hare well.
For sauces, I prefer dried morels and ceps (which you may know as boletus or porcini) to fresh ones, because they give a more intense flavour.
You need to make stock for this dish; pan juices will not suffice. Making stock creates a number of dirty pans disproportionate to the amount of liquid obtained. There is no short cut; bouillon cubes won’t do. When I make stock at home I always double or quadruple the quantity and freeze what’s left for another day.
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