This is a common dish in the southwest of France and, in Italy, the identical preparation is known as a Florentine specialty. It is, essentially, an omelet that, because it is started out in a cold dish, sticks. Its uniqueness depends on a juxtaposition of flavors and textures—the crispness and nutty taste of the golden fried artichokes baked into the mass of creamy, barely set eggs—that can be obtained in no other way.
The size of the dish is important to the success of this preparation: it should only just contain the fried artichoke quarters, scattered closely over the bottom, the beaten eggs achieving a depth that easily covers them.
Pull off the tough outer leaves of the artichokes, cut off the top third of the remaining leaves, and pare any remaining tough edges. Split into quarters (or eighths, depending on the size of the artichokes), remove chokes, if necessary, and add to a bowl containing about
Copyright © 1974 by Richard Olney. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.