Breton Chowder

Any kind of fish may find its way into a cotriade. If small, tender-fleshed fish—pilchard, sardines, smelts—are included, they should be whole and added only 5 or 6 minutes before removal from the flame. Originally, the smoky flavor from the bonfire over which the kettle of fish was cooked no doubt enhanced the rough, direct, soul-warming character of the thing. Cider is the usual accompaniment—some readers may share my preference for a Muscadet or other light, dry, young white wine.