Zucchini Pudding Souffle

The traditional soufflé, raced from oven to table with, its lovely golden head bobbing precariously, is a pretty sight and may have evinced more gasps of admiration than any other single bit of culinary theater. Even served rapidly by an accomplished maître d’hôtel, it has already collapsed into an indefinable ectoplasmic stuff before the tines of one’s fork can reach it (the uncooked heart of the matter, it is said, serves as the sauce).

A pudding soufflé and, in particular, one th