Batter Noodles

Treated as a gratin, these rich, round, tender eggy noodles are quite astonishing—simply drowned in cream and sprinkled with grated cheese (or liberally sprinkled with meat or poultry roasting juices and cheese . . .). Served as a garnish, they may also be tossed in butter and seasoned to taste, and a few chopped fines herbes may be added; or they may be tossed with fresh breadcrumbs that have first been cooked gently and tossed often in butter until lightly golden and crisp—more but