Treated as a gratin, these rich, round, tender eggy noodles are quite astonishing—simply drowned in cream and sprinkled with grated cheese (or liberally sprinkled with meat or poultry roasting juices and cheese . . .). Served as a garnish, they may also be tossed in butter and seasoned to taste, and a few chopped fines herbes may be added; or they may be tossed with fresh breadcrumbs that have first been cooked gently and tossed often in butter until lightly golden and crisp—more butter added at the moment the noodles are joined to the crumbs. They may, of course, be combined with other ingredients, either as a gratin or sautéed. With the former, it is a good way to stretch truffles, respecting their flavor. Or a bed of mushroom purée may line the gratin dish; or dried morels (soaked, trimmed, rinsed, and butter-stewed) may be mixed with them to the happiest of effects. Or rapidly parboiled little peas . . .