Somewhat reduced, with an additional garnish of sautéed mushrooms and little butter-cooked onions, this soup becomes the basic Burgundy sauce in which beef is cooked for a Bourguignon, chicken for a coq-au-vin, eel for a matelotte; poached eggs, brains, veal, lungs, or a variety of river fish, thus sauced, are said to be en meurette.
The dried crusts and chopped herbs may be replaced by crisp little croutons cooked in butter and rapidly sautéed in a persillade at the last minute. Their charm, unlike the soaked crusts, resides in their crispness and their nutty, brown-butter separateness of flavor, so they should be added only as the soup is being served.
Cook the lardons gently in
Copyright © 1974 by Richard Olney. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.