Were lambs’ trotters marketed in the United States, they would replace the calf’s foot or the pig’s feet in this recipe. White beans usually accompany this daube; fresh egg noodles seem to me the perfect accompaniment. The white wine may be replaced by red wine. The thyme may be eliminated from the bouquet and either it alone or a mixture of dried, crumbled herbs sprinkled over the layers of meats and vegetables. The presence of dried orange peel in a bouquet is specifically Provençal and was originally that of the bitter Seville orange, or bigarrade (just as duck in orange was originally wild duck finished with a bit of bitter orange juice for relief: canard à la bigarrade). A
The stew will be at its best if prepared the previous day, left at room temperature, uncovered, overnight, skimmed of surface fat the following day, slowly reheated, and left to simmer for another ½ hour or so.
Lard the pieces of meat with the strips of fatback, first tossed in the mixture of herbs and seasonings. Marinate for about 3 hours (or overnight in the refrigerator), covered, turning the pieces around in their marinade two or three times during that period.
Cover the calf’s foot, the rinds, and the pieces of lean salt pork with cold water, bring to a boil, simmer for about 5 minutes, drain, and rinse.
The traditional daubière is a pot-bellied earthenware affair, the form of which reduces greatly the liquid’s surface, minimizing evaporation and facilitating skimming. Use a
Copyright © 1974 by Richard Olney. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.